On April eighth, 1993, at 1:29 am EDT, NASA launched Area Shuttle Discovery Flight 54 (Mission STS-56) from Kennedy Area Heart.
Underscored by the darkness of evening, the Area Shuttle’s rocket boosters lit the sky for miles in each course (video) — probably the most mesmerizing issues I’ve ever witnessed. I wore my first watch, a Timex Ironman that evening, and three many years later that unique fascination with house and watches has come full circle as I assessment the best-known house watch of all time — the Speedmaster Moonwatch Skilled.
Area and time are inextricably linked. Whereas Omega’s Moonwatch is just not the one watch to go to outer house — G-Shock, Rolex, Breitling, Bulova, Seiko, Timex, Hamilton, Yema, Fortis, TAG Heuer, and different manufacturers have been there too — the Speedmaster is synonymous with house exploration and most famously was worn on the primary moon touchdown.
In 1962 Wally Schirra wore his private Speedmaster on the Mercury-Atlas-8 mission, making it the primary Omega in house (FOIS). A number of years later NASA requested quotes for wrist chronographs in 1964 and Omega was one in all 4 firms that submitted watches for testing. Omega gained and NASA declared the Speedmaster “Flight Certified For All Manned Area Missions” in 1965. Later the identical yr, Ed White wore his Speedmaster on America’s first spacewalk throughout his Gemini 4 mission.
By this level, the Speedmaster was already a part of house historical past. It was not till 1969, nonetheless, throughout the Apollo XI moon touchdown, that the Speedmaster’s legendary “Moonwatch” standing was formally confirmed when Buzz Aldrin wore a NASA-approved Speedmaster Skilled Ref. 105.012 on the moon. This standing was additional solidified in 1970 throughout Apollo XIII when the Speedmaster was used to manually time crucial engine burns wanted for re-entry after the ship’s onboard methods malfunctioned — in the end saving the crew’s life.
The Moonwatch has a particular provenance that’s virtually untouchable on the watch market. Whether or not the house affiliation appeals to you or not, the Speedmaster Moonwatch is a unbelievable timepiece by itself deserves. The traditional aesthetics, universally interesting case dimension, distinctive asymmetrical “twisted” lugs, modern Lemania-derived handbook wind motion, affordable value, wonderful worth retention, and revered model title all make a compelling argument for proudly owning one.
Case
A 42 mm diameter x 13 mm thick (14 mm together with the Seahorse medallion) stainless-steel (48 mm lug-to-lug) case, with a hard and fast metal bezel and black aluminum bezel tachymeter, insert with a dot subsequent to ninety, twisted lugs which have been mirror polished that distinction the vertically brushed asymmetrical flanks — giving the Speedmaster Moonwatch Skilled its sporty, horny, and unmistakable look.
An ideal 20 mm lug width, as a result of it’s probably the most common sizes, permits for a broad number of straps. This Speedmaster 311.30.42.30.01.005 is proven with a black textile strap that’s 20 mm on the case and tapers to 18 mm on the lugs. The burden as proven is 81.7 grams. Anticipate a weight of 130 grams+ with a bracelet, relying on which sort of bracelet and what number of hyperlinks you might have.
The caseback is engraved with “FLIGHT-QUALIFIED BY NASA FOR ALL MANNED SPACE MISSIONS” and “THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON.” The case is waterproof 50 meters, and that must be sufficient in most conditions, together with house, however the Speedmaster doesn’t have a screw-down crown or the additional gaskets present in dive watches that supply deeper depth rankings.
Dial
The black, stepped Speedmaster dial appears to be like nice and is iconic and was used to assist re-enter Earth’s ambiance on Apollo XIII, nonetheless, the chronograph readability on one thing such because the Chronoscope far exceeds the unique Speedmaster Skilled with its dual-hand subdial and full 60-minute chronograph counter versus the Moonwatch’s 30-minute counter. “PROFESSIONAL” first began showing on the dial in 1969 with Ref. 105.012.
Motion
Making a mechanical chronograph motion in-house is amongst the most expensive issues to do commercially in watchmaking, and whereas Omega technically acquired the mental property from Lemania, that is thought of an Omega in-house motion. The lineage of the Moonwatch actions is as follows calibers 321, 861, 1861, and 3861. The pre-owned mannequin featured on this video (circa 2017, Ref. 311.30.42.30.01.005) has the Omega caliber 1861, which is a unbelievable handbook wind chronograph derived from the Lemania 1873 structure obtained by Swatch Group once they acquired the now nonexistent model.
Omega’s newest caliber 3861 comes from the identical lineage. It has been enhanced with Omega’s Co-Axial escapement, a free-sprung stability, anti-magnetic parts, higher-end ending, and is a METAS COSC-certified Grasp Chronometer. Nonetheless, the chronograph has a fundamental cam and lever chronograph design, not a premium column wheel and vertical clutch, as was discovered within the Lemania 2310-derived caliber 321 that powered the primary Speedmasters, together with Speedmaster Skilled Ref. 105.012 that Buzz Aldrin wore on the moon in 1969.
All of the Moonwatch calibers talked about are manually wound, which means it’s important to wind it your self, not like a Rolex Daytona which is mechanically wound. That’s a part of the appeal for sure collectors, myself included. To not point out, handbook wind designs virtually at all times permit for a thinner motion.
Bracelets/Straps
Whether or not you go classic, pre-owned, or new, I like to recommend at all times going with an (OEM) bracelet, hopefully, Omega will add a quick-release system to this mannequin sooner or later. So far as straps, the most effective choices are textile (OEM or third social gathering – proven), Nato-style nylon (OEM or third social gathering), NASA velcro (OEM), rubber strap (OEM), premium FKM rubber molded to the case (third social gathering), and leather-based (OEM or third-party). The OEM nylon-coated black textile is sweet however yow will discover many alternate options which are of comparable high quality to the manufacturing unit black textile strap (such because the strap proven), which tapers to 18 mm (versus tapering to 16 mm on the buckle with the manufacturing unit strap), has no leather-based reinforcing the pin holes, and is a pin buckle versus a deployant however I’ve seen each in particular person they usually’re of the same high quality. For bigger wrists, mine is 7″ in circumference in these photographs, the 18 mm appears to be like higher, but when my wrist had been thinner I feel a 16 mm taper would work.
Crystal
You’ll be able to’t go mistaken with both the usual (unique) plexiglass Hesalite or premium sapphire crystal choices, however word that whereas the sapphire sandwich affords a view of the motion, it carries an approximate premium of $1,000 (keep in mind there are two sapphire crystals versus a single plexiglass crystal), and sits barely greater in your wrist and that Hesalite can scratch (although not like sapphire the scratches could be buffed out) far simpler however it’s additionally cheaper. Maybe most significantly, Hesalite (plexiglass) is the true unique tools of the Moonwatch.
Variations
The unique Moonwatches have a black stepped dial, black aluminum bezel insert, a strong caseback, and Hesalite glass. There are additionally many cool new and pre-owned Speedmaster variations accessible which are value your consideration, such because the Tintin, Ultraman, Snoopy Generations 1-3 (2003 – LE, 2015 – LE, 2020 – non-LE), Apollo XIII Anniversary Editions, Tokyo Olympics 202o, Titanium, Ceramic, the “Sapphire Sandwich” that first got here out in 2021, and the new for 2024 white dial “Daniel Craig mannequin.” There are additionally two-tone (gold-steel), treasured metallic (gold, platinum), moonphase, and GMT fashions.
Alternate options
The Speedmaster Chronoscope is a good trendy different to the Moonwatch, which has an identical design however is barely bigger, has symmetrical versus asymmetrical twisted lugs, a two-register dial, incorporates a extra superior 9300 collection motion, and is available in barely bigger 43 mm diameter case. Straight lug fashions, similar to 2915 and 2998 Speedmasters, the restricted version Ed White, and different trendy variations are good alternate options and can be found in barely smaller 39.7 mm circumstances. In order for you probably the most reasonably priced Speedmaster, the bioceramic quartz-powered MoonSwatch is an choice for about $300.
Competitors
So far as iconic, mainstream chronographs, the Omega Speedmaster has 4 key Swiss rivals — the Breitling Navitimer, TAG Heuer Carrera, Zenith El Primero, and Rolex Daytona. When contemplating the worth, solely the Carrera comes shut, but the well-known Omega chronograph formidably competes with all of them.
Verdict
Omega’s Speedmaster Moonwatch Skilled is among the greatest Swiss mechanical chronographs for the cash, beginning pre-owned at roughly $4,000 in stainless-steel to above $15,000 for editions such because the Snoopy Speedmasters technology 1-3 or Apollo XIII twenty fifth Anniversary Version.
For a model new (Ref. 310) Moonwatch Skilled with a Grasp Chronometer motion in stainless-steel, the retail is $6,600 for Hesalite on a strap, $7,000 for Hesalite on a textile strap, and $7,600 for sapphire on a leather-based strap, $8,000 for sapphire on a bracelet.
The Speedmaster Moonwatch Skilled and its beautiful, distinctive tornado lyre lug is a pretty, well-proportioned timepiece watch that’s versatile and appears nice in formal or informal settings. In order for you the most effective collectible mechanical chronograph for the cash, the Speedmaster in stainless-steel, with a Hesalite plexiglass crystal, on a strap (or bracelet) — is difficult to beat. And like a Porsche 911 or a Rolex Submariner, Omega has rigorously developed the design of the Speedmaster in order that regardless of the yr, the design stays timeless.
(Please keep tuned for a video of this assessment to be embedded right here and on Youtube.com/prowatches on Monday, October 14th, at 7 am EST. )
This characteristic is Offered by The 1916 Firm.
