Moser’s new Pioneer Retrograde Seconds contains a cool retrograde seconds operate.
The Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is delivered in a sporty 42.8 mm x 14.2 mm stainless-steel case, with cutouts alongside the case flanks that lighten the watch.
As a substitute of a standard seconds show, at 6 o’clock Moser has applied a retrograde hand that strikes left to proper, in an arc, each 30 seconds, then immediately jumps again and does it once more, because of the double snail cam mechanism seen within the heart of the show. “On the finish of every cycle, the snail, which is in everlasting contact with the sector or finger, releases the power amassed and saved by a hairspring situated underneath the seconds hand axis, with a stud holder mounted on the mainplate. The rack, which can also be seen underneath the retrograde seconds bridge, positions the hand exactly on its path and releases the amassed power , whereas preserving the mechanism underneath management,” in keeping with Moser. Interesintly, a two-tone disc beneath the snail signifies whether or not the watch is within the first or second 30-second interval of the cycle.
Along with the retrograde complication, one other notable design component is the midnight blue fumé with a sunburst sample (and H. Moser & Cie. brand in clear lacquer), which has similarities to what you see on many Moser watches, aside from the faceted utilized indices, leaf-shaped skeleton hour and minute arms, retrograde seconds show that appears like a speedometer, rubber strap, and sporty case leading to an interesting aesthetic that’s extra fitted to informal than gown events. A screw-down crown and 120 meters of water resistance add to the sporty vibe.
To ship the retrograde performance, Moser took its HMC caliber 2oo computerized and labored with Agenhor SA (retrograde mechanisms are one in every of its specialties) to develop a 30-second retrograde module, leading to caliber 250. The 32.0 mm x 6.5 mm motion beats at 3Hz, has 31 jewels, has a 72-hour energy reserve, and makes use of a bi-directional pawl winding system. The motion options hacking seconds, an Authentic Straumann® steadiness spring (owned by Moser), an anthracite end with Moser double stripes, and an engraved oscillating weight.
Just like a tourbillon, the retrograde mechanism offers you one thing animated to take a look at on the dial aspect, past the normal rotation of the watch’s arms. The fumé dial, sporty case, and in-house motion all add to the enchantment, however the value may be steep contemplating the element edges look like machine-finished.
The Moser Pioneer Retrograde Seconds (Ref. 3250-1200) comes with a domed sapphire crystal and see-through caseback and is on the market with both hand-stitched alligator leather-based, a perforated rubber strap (proven), a textile strap, or a metal bracelet. Retail is $21,900.
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Pictures by Moser.
