Uncover essentially the most related {industry} information and insights for vogue designers, up to date every month to allow you to excel in job interviews, promotion conversations or carry out higher within the office by growing your market consciousness and emulating market leaders.
BoF Careers distils enterprise intelligence from throughout the breadth of our content material — editorial briefings, newsletters, case research, podcasts and occasions — to ship key takeaways and learnings tailor-made to your job operate, listed alongside a choice of essentially the most thrilling dwell jobs marketed by BoF Careers companions.
Key articles and need-to-know insights for vogue designers right this moment:
1. Jean Paul Gaultier to Collaborate With Shayne Oliver
Jean Paul Gaultier has added a expertise to its visitor designer programme, tapping Shayne Oliver — the co-founder of Hood By Air who left the design collective final yr — to design a ready-to-wear capsule for the Paris-based model.
Gaultier plans to launch the gathering in New York on Could 6 — the identical evening because the Met Gala — throwing an after-hours social gathering for the mission on American vogue’s greatest evening. […] The provocative, but wearable line might assist revive consciousness for Gaultier’s extra elevated ready-to-wear propositions after years wherein essentially the most seen components of the model have been both its theatrical high fashion seems to be, or on the different finish of the spectrum, sailor-striped T-shirts and perfumes that generate the vast majority of gross sales.
Associated Jobs:
Womenswear Designer, Simone Rocha — London, United Kingdom
Junior Designer, A-Chilly-Wall — Milan, Italy
Design Growth Assistant, Lein Studio — New York, United States
2. How Adidas Sambas Took Over the World
The standard Adidas Samba, as soon as the reserve of soccer followers, Britpop youngsters and the odd skateboarder, has develop into as ubiquitous as battered Converse All Stars within the 00s indie sleaze years. […] Over the previous two years, UK-wide searches for ‘Adidas Samba’ have greater than doubled. And, within the celeb world, everybody from Hailey Bieber to A$AP Rocky, Rihanna and Harry Kinds have been papped within the coach.
It’s not laborious to see the enchantment of the 74-year-old coach. […] At about £75 ($94), they’re inexpensive for an “it” shoe. However, for lots of younger individuals, it was the model’s 2020 collaboration with menswear designer Grace Wales Bonner — trainers that at the moment are going for as much as £4,000 ($5,008) on some websites — that actually elevated the Samba to stratospheric ranges. [But] the Samba obsession doesn’t exist in a bubble. Look on TikTok and you will note that there’s a wider starvation for nostalgia (see additionally: Adidas observe tops, low-rise denims, Timberland boots).
Associated Jobs:
Trend Designer, One other Neighborhood — London, United Kingdom
Lead Color & Supplies Designer, On — Zurich, Switzerland
Sportswear Trend Designer, Oysho — Barcelona, Spain
3. Why Salone del Cellular Is Irresistible for Luxurious Manufacturers
Milan’s Salone del Cellular design honest has taken on new proportions in recent times. Proposing a 360-degree luxurious life-style to their wealthiest prospects is an even bigger focus than ever this yr as aspirational prospects proceed to spend much less. Loro Piana’s dwelling universe has seen actual success in recent times, […] whereas Hermès produces a full vary of furnishings along with its best-selling H-logo pillows and leather-based tchotchkes. Armani/Casa, Versace and Fendi additionally characteristic established furnishings and homeware extensions.
Manufacturers […] perceive the ability of internet hosting influential individuals, significantly throughout Salone when the Italian spring creates a potent backdrop for gatherings. It’s a giant second for cross-industry networking, because the occasion tends to attract a broader vary of individuals from culture- and design-adjacent fields (structure, vogue, design, artwork, media and advertising) than extra insular occasions like vogue week or Cannes Lions.
Associated Jobs:
Equipment Designer, Home of CB — London, United Kingdom
Sample Cutter, Toteme — Stockholm, Sweden
Pattern Maker, Dion Lee — New York, United States
4. Remembering Roberto Cavalli, ‘King of Bling’
There was nothing refined about Roberto Cavalli, the designer recognized for his maximalism and over-the-top animal prints — not on his runways and definitely not in his private life […]. Cavalli, who died in Florence this month on the age of 83, was a larger-than-life character who constructed a vogue empire primarily based on his personal picture, an image of Italian swagger, which he referred to as the “Cavalli World.”
After Cavalli bought a majority stake within the firm to Clessidra, a non-public fairness fund, in 2015, Peter Dundas took over the model’s inventive path, solely to get replaced two years later by Paul Surridge, who himself left the home in 2017. After a chapter in 2019 that noticed the closure of the model’s shops and operations in the US, Cavalli was bought to the Dubai luxurious actual property developer Hussain Sajwani, who named Fausto Puglisi inventive director in 2020. “It’s the biggest honour of my profession to work underneath your legacy and to create for you the model you based with such imaginative and prescient and magnificence,” Puglisi stated on Instagram.
Associated Jobs:
Product Growth Administrator, Burberry — London, United Kingdom
Senior Tailoring Menswear Designer, Massimo Dutti — Barcelona, Spain
Assistant Womenswear Designer, Alexander Wang — New York, United States
5. Armani ‘Doesn’t Rule Out’ Merger or IPO In Succession Plan
Three months earlier than his ninetieth birthday, Giorgio Armani is hinting at potential massive modifications for his Italian vogue empire as soon as he’s not in cost. After combating for years to maintain Giorgio Armani SpA impartial amid the mergers and acquisitions that reshaped the posh sector, the billionaire design virtuoso now says he gained’t rule out his agency sometime combining with an even bigger rival or itemizing on an change.
“Independence from giant teams might nonetheless be a driving worth for the Armani Group sooner or later, however I don’t really feel I can rule something out,” Armani stated in a written interview. “What has all the time characterised the success of my work is a capability to adapt to altering instances.” It’s a hanging shift in tone for Armani, who rose from Milan window dresser to creator of one of many world’s most outstanding luxurious homes, maintaining tight management alongside the best way and dropping few hints about what would occur as soon as he exited the scene.
Associated Jobs:
Manufacturing Assistant, JW Anderson — London, United Kingdom
Purse Designer, Kate Spade — New York, United States
Assistant Purse Designer, Tommy Hilfiger — New York, United States
6. Chanel’s Newest Authorized Battleground: Upcycling
Just a little over a yr in the past, Travis Kelce, the American soccer star and boyfriend of Taylor Swift, stepped out in a flamboyant silk shirt emblazoned with two barrel-chest-sized pink flamingos and trimmed throughout the underside with an enormous Chanel brand. The design was upcycled from classic Chanel scarves by stylist Logan Horne, whose model, J. Logan Dwelling, specialises in refashioning heritage luxurious equipment. His items, which retail at near $3,000 every, have been worn by musicians Dua Lipa and a pair of Chainz and bought at shops together with Farfetch, Kith and The Webster. They’ve additionally caught the eye of the French luxurious large’s authorized division.
In February, legal professionals performing for Chanel despatched Horne a stop and desist letter, demanding his label cease promoting merchandise bearing its brand and different model signifiers. It’s the most recent in a flurry of instances which have turned upcycling into an rising authorized battle floor, pitting a follow that’s been pitched as key to bettering the {industry}’s sustainability credentials towards the established bounds of trademark safety.
Associated Jobs:
Atelier Assistant, Halfpenny London — London, United Kingdom
Senior Designer, Hugo Boss — Metzingen, Germany
Design Studio Supervisor, Coach — New York, United States
7 . Trend’s Virgin Plastic Drawback
Trend must not solely cease making a lot new stuff but additionally ditch its reliance on virgin-plastic supplies like polyester altogether so as to meet the {industry}’s local weather objectives, in keeping with a brand new report by sustainable materials-focused commerce group Textile Trade. The sector’s emissions have to more-or-less halve by the tip of the last decade to remain consistent with internationally agreed ambitions to maintain a cap on world heating. However that gained’t occur until the {industry} slows down and stops utilizing new volumes of the fossil fuel-based textiles which have helped propel its development for many years, the report stated.
That might be a drastic change to vogue’s dominant enterprise mannequin. Low cost and versatile polyester is the world’s most used materials, accounting for greater than half of world manufacturing in 2022, in keeping with Textile Trade. Throw in different synthetics, like nylon and acrylic, and plastic’s market share rises to just about two thirds of the textiles produced annually. […] All of it comes at a heavy environmental value. To feed demand from the attire, footwear and residential textile industries, polyester producers spewed 125 million tonnes of carbon dioxide into the environment in 2022, in keeping with Textile Trade
Associated Jobs:
Knitwear Design Intern, Galvan London — London, United Kingdom
Lead Technical Product Supervisor, Gucci — Milan, Italy
Affiliate Designer, Calvin Klein — New York, United States
8. Gucci Hires Deputy CEO to Bolster Turnaround Efforts
Kering flagship Gucci has employed Stefano Cantino, a veteran communications government from Louis Vuitton, to the newly created function of deputy CEO, bolstering its efforts to reignite development. Earlier than becoming a member of Vuitton, Cantino rose via the ranks at Prada, turning into a high communications officer after which chief government for the French market. At Vuitton, he oversaw the now €20 billion-a-year model’s sprawling communications equipment, together with blockbuster vogue week spectacles corresponding to Pharrell Williams debut on Paris’ Pont Neuf and elaborate museum-style exhibitions.
The appointment comes at a pivotal second for Gucci as Kering makes an attempt to revamp the model’s picture, collections and organisation in a bid to get issues again on observe after a precipitous gross sales decline. Underneath new management — together with inventive director Sabato de Sarno, CEO Jean-François Palus (Kering chairman François-Henri Pinault’s most trusted deputy) and Kering deputy CEO Francesca Bellettini — the model is angling for a extra high-end, timeless picture, however might want to stability that ambition with efforts to draw consideration and will get prospects enthusiastic about Gucci once more.
Associated Jobs:
Designer Specialist, AWWG — London, United Kingdom
Product Developer, Alexander McQueen — Parabiago, Italy
Jewelry Designer, Tiffany & Co. — New York, United States
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